Toronto has a new retro listening bar serving Japanese late-night eats with a twist

Kensei Bar is a new vinyl bar on Dundas and Ossington specializing in expertly crafted cocktails, shareable snacks, and late-night bites. Inspired by the electrifying and bustling nightlife of Tokyo in the late 1980s, when everything was a sea of blinking neon lights and billboards, Kensei is a snapshot of the past.

The cozy space, outfitted with floral wallpaper, lace curtains, warm wood panelling, and stained glass light fixtures, is reminiscent of the decor one might find at their grandma’s house.

For talented chefs and brothers Juwon Lee and Hansang Lee, creating an environment where they could celebrate nostalgia and incorporate elements of their childhood was always the intention.

“All the decorations and small details were inspired by our childhood memories. We’re both from the 90’s generation. We just wanted to have fun and show people who we are and what we’re doing here,” shared Juwon Lee.

Going with the theme, the walls are lined with family photographs and whimsy childhood drawings, including a photo of Juwon Lee celebrating his 100th day, a special newborn tradition customary in Korean culture.

You may recognize the brothers from their success at Gonzo Izakaya, a well-known spot for Japanese-style street food. Ready for another project, they partnered with their good friend and chef Hyunchan Jo to create a concept where the Japanese-inspired plates are just as important as the savoury smooth sips and curated soundtrack.

Playing on the impressive vinyl setup is a collection of evening jazz and 1980s Japanese pop, which I learned was considered the golden era for city pop music.

Every Tuesday, though, guests are welcome to bring their own records and add them to the queue of tunes, and no, they don’t need to fit in the jazz or J-Pop category.

With Juwon heading the bar and Hansang the kitchen, the complementary food and drink menu is a perfect duet. While the focus is primarily Japanese flavours, there’s a subtle nod to their Korean roots, with best-in-class tips and tricks they’ve picked up from their travels to New York and Tokyo.

The signature cocktails are cleverly divided into various musical categories: Ragtime (floral notes), Swing (savoury notes), Blues (smoky, full-bodied), Chorus (whisky), and Intermission (mocktails and beer).

Grooving Lips ($20) leads the swing category as a customer favourite.

“You’re going to smack your lips,” laughed Juwon Lee. “Because of the plum salt rim around it.”

The drink features shiso, shochu, yuzu, and agave, along with the finely blended dehydrated plum powder. Thanks to the shiso and yuzu, it’s bright and citrusy, and every sip is as satisfying as the last.

Also in the lineup of fun and playful beverages is the Papcio ($17). Inspired by Japanese chocolate ice cream, the drink is crafted with Hojicha whisky, cream, Lagavulin 8, and chocolate for a warm, sweet adult treat.

The Old FAT-shioned ($21) is a bacon fat-washed bourbon with maple syrup, bitters, and lemon. Like other fat-washed cocktails, leftover bacon fat is mixed with the whisky before it’s chilled, separated, and discarded to impart a smoky bacon-infused flavour.

Switching to food, the Shishito Ohitashi ($10) are braised in soy sauce, mirin, and ichimi (chilli pepper). Their salty, sweet, and smoky combination makes them the perfect snack, and I can attest that while most of the peppers are mild, the ‘1 in every 10 are spicy’ rule holds true.

The Ebi Furai ($19) is panko-breaded black tiger shrimp done with an ume (Japanese plum) tartar condiment that is sensational. The shrimp are golden, plump, and perfectly crisp, dressed with a drizzle of sweet tonkatsu. Although meant to be shared, I’d recommend getting more than one order because fried shrimp this good will disappear quickly.

The Uni Bruschetta ($12) is a small bite of umami on toast, thanks to the delicate and creamy Japanese sea urchin that melts in your mouth. It’s complemented by a whole cherry tomato and sliced green onion.

For something more substantial, the Galbi Burger ($17) was inspired by the McDonalds of Korea, Lotteria, and their bulgogi burger. The galbi-seasoned patty is grilled on high heat, giving it a distinctive sweet and smoky flavour from the soy sauce-based marinade. It’s sandwiched between buttered brioche with crisp iceberg lettuce and a tart plum mayo.

The Napolitan Pasta ($17) is an old-school rendition of cafeteria-style ketchup noodles and sliced hot dogs. This elevated version with soba noodles, grated tomato, bell pepper, sausage, lemon, and Tabasco was surprisingly tasty and not what I was expecting. Sweet, savoury, and tangy, it’s a dish rich in taste and history.

Kensei, often attributed to keeping things in check, shares dual meanings in Japanese and Korean Busan dialects, reflecting the brother’s family heritage and deep appreciation for Japanese culture.