Three generations of a family has run a widely loved Toronto restaurant for almost 40 years

Three generations of the Nguyen family have spoiled Toronto with authentic Vietnamese cuisine, becoming a staple on one of the city’s most bustling streets.

Pho Rùa Vàng Golden Turtle Restaurant opened in 1987 on the corner of Argyle Street and Ossington Avenue, right at 125 Ossington Avenue. As regulars are familiar, this spot has an outdoor patio for hot summer evenings and a cozy indoor space to save you from Toronto’s freezing winters. And if comfort is what you’re looking for, their Pho alone would surely do the trick – rich and aromatic, it’s the kind of dish that turns first-timers into regulars, like me.

What Once Was

But to truly appreciate the restaurant’s roots, it helps to understand the neighbourhood it calls home. Back in the 80s, the area was known as Little Vietnam, dotted with Vietnamese karaoke bars and small cafés. Fast forward to today, and Ossington tells a very different story.

I’ve had my fair share of adventures along the busy strip, more times than I can count. And while I see that the neighbourhood continues to evolve throughout the years, Golden Turtle has stood the test of time, untouched by the changes.

It’s currently owned by Linda Nguyen and Michael Vo, a brother and sister duo that took over daily operations from their parents. Nguyen shared with me how she recalls her mother, Huyen Vo, working daunting hours to uphold the restaurant in its early years.

A True Labour Of Love

“My mother has told me stories about the hardships of opening the store. She worked long hours to keep up with the demands at the time,” she shares.

“Late nights to prep food went on for years. Mom would be home around 3 to 4 a.m. and back at work for 9 a.m. for seven days. When I was old enough to help at four years old, I remember the restaurant being packed every weekend. All the aunties and uncles would come and talk about their week, and it was very pleasant.”

At that time, Vo had one person helping her in the kitchen while Nguyen’s father worked the front of the house with another server. It’s a true family business and all hands were on deck.

“To date, we have gone through three generations of family working,” explains Nguyen. “Currently, my brother and I have co-ownership of the store. My parents still work for us and my aunt and uncles who worked with my mom are still working. They haven’t retired yet.”

Though their staffing hasn’t really shuffled, their menu sure has. It’s undergone “a drastic change since the 80s,” as Nguyen puts it. They had around 130 classic dishes back then, but as more Vietnamese establishments popped up across the city, they began to decrease their offerings.

One dish has never left the menu: Pho.

Don’t Fix What Isn’t Broken

“The time and ingredients that goes in the stock pot every morning never changes. The recipe has been kept the same, with some little modifications if we cannot source a certain herb or spice for the day,” mentions Nguyen.

“My mom’s love for this recipe is what makes it unique and special. Everyone has a take on how pho should taste like, which is alright. Because Pho is unique to each person, that is what makes this dish so easy to serve and eat.”

These days, a bowl of this delicacy will cost you about $16 to $19 depending on the size.

Though to Nguyen it may just be a special family recipe, to patrons of Golden Turtle, it’s not just a dish, but rather a staple that fosters a deep sense of community. And that is evidenced by the many lasting bonds formed over the years.

Lasting Connections

She shared how impactful every interaction is with her customers. “If we were to pick one, it would be seeing my teachers through the years dine in and retiring and bringing in their grandchildren,” she adds.

“Most of our loyal patrons are like family to us, we always share good and sad memories together.”

Through thick and thin as I like to put it. And that exact sentiment came to the test when COVID struck. Golden Turtle adapted quickly, transitioning their established online presence onto food delivery apps.

“We were very fortunate to be able to open and provide work for our staff. Those were some tough and scary times,” Nguyen exclaims. “Uncertainty and fear of going out of business always crossed our minds. So, we are very thankful that we made it.”

Now, an establishment that has seated generations of patrons, has seen a shift into online ordering. More people are ordering take-out.

“I think many people have changed how they approach eating out and prefer the comfort of their homes. We also know that some of our clients moved out of the area, so they tend to order on the apps,” explains Nguyen. “Especially since everyone knows parking is notoriously bad on Ossington.”

Another 30 years?

But as real as the awful parking situation is, people flock to the neighbourhood in any season and the demand for Golden Turtle remains as strong as ever, even if it is online.

“We don’t know what lies ahead. We do know we are here to stay for as long as we can operate,” shares Nguyen.

“Hopefully, my kids will want to carry the legacy.”